Cornwall Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty

The Cornwall Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty Management Plan 2011 - 2016

07 West Penwith

Location

This AONB section includes the most westerly part of the Cornwall peninsula. It extends westwards from the western edge of St Ives, around Cape Cornwall and inland to include the central Penwith Hills (also referred to as the downs or moors). From Sennen Cove and Land’s End the AONB narrows, being bounded inland by the A30. Eastwards of this, the AONB remains mostly south of the B3315 extending to Penlee Point just east of the coastal
village of Mousehole.

Extent

Approximately 14,000 hectares or just under 54 square miles, forming nearly 15% of the
Cornwall AONB.

Statement of Significance

Unremitting exposure to the full force of the sea at this western extremity of mainland Britain has sculpted the hard granite coastline into a sequence of headlands punctuated by occasional small coves and cut by substantial chasms locally known as ‘Zawns’. The cliffs along the north coast are rugged and sloping but at the south become impressively precipitous and vertical jointed. In the south west between Gwennap Head and Lands End the rocky shores form a series of especially wild bays with sea caves hewn into the tough granite by the power of the Atlantic waves whilst in the south the coast is much indented by rocky coves between precipitous headlands. There are only a few beaches, the most notable of which is at Whitesand bay, east of Sennen where the extensive white sands are backed by partially stabilised dunes.

Meeting the rocky cliffs is an elevated coastal plateau. Round the south and west coasts this is undulating rising gradually inland. Along the north coast between Morvah and Rosewall Hill however, the coastal plateau forms a narrow shelf-like band of almost imperceptible slopes bordered and defined at its inland edge by a sharp transition to the steep sides of the central hills. These downs form a spine of rounded, elevated and exposed moorland tracing an undulating horizon punctuated by prominent heavily weathered granite outcrops for example at Rosewall Hill, Zennor, Carn Galver, and Carn Kenidjack. This high ground stretches from
Trencrom Hill in the East to Chapel Carn Brea in the west with its highest point midway at Watchcroft near Morvah. Due to their scale much of the higher central Hills appear open but especially at lower levels there is an extensive network of small irregular enclosures, many of prehistoric origin, showing successive modifications over the passing centuries.

Long range views over a seemingly endless ocean and exposure to the elements are typical but contrast with the intimacy and enclosure found in the shelter of secluded valleys. On a clear day, from the upper slopes of the North coastal plateau and the central Hills, the Isles of Scilly can be seen shimmering on the far horizon.

The network of tiny irregular pasture fields on the north coast bound by granite Cornish hedges are prehistoric in origin and deemed by many to be among the oldest surviving man made structures that have been in continuous use for their original purpose since they were made, many being older than the Egyptian Pyramids. Cornish hedges in West Penwith have a construction markedly different from elsewhere in Cornwall. Large granite boulders, or “grounders” act as a foundation for irregular upper courses of varying sizes of weathered granite taken straight from the surface of the moor. Some have little vegetation other than perhaps a sparse topping of rough growth whilst others support windswept gnarled thorn bushes.

In the south, the remains of now mostly abandoned tiny terraced bulb fields occur on coastal slopes and inland to the South despite agricultural modernisation, fields remain small with markedly irregular boundaries showing their early origin, The less exposed south has much of the better agricultural land in mixed arable, pastoral and horticultural use including potato and daffodil production with their distinctive seasonal patterns and colours. The impoverished soils of the central downs were formerly important for grazing and whilst this still continues the main purpose of the grazing has moved towards conserving biodiversity.

Coastal heathland and rough ground is extensive, adding to the air of untamed exposure and
contributing sometimes breathtaking seasonal variation in colour from the yellow of gorse, the carpets of bluebells, the magenta of heather and the fresh greens of summer to the warm browns of dead bracken in autumn. Moorland vegetation has its own spectacular seasonal colours. The Western Heath includes Heathers, Western Gorse and rough grasses sometimes interspersed with small areas of wetland. Generally there are few trees on the exposed ground with occasional exceptions such as contorted wind sculpted hawthorns, and around some farmsteads isolated small groups of windswept hardy trees have been planted.

Valleys incise the slopes and coastal land. Along the north coast, these are small and shallow across the coastal plateau until they cut steep sided notches through the cliff edges forming tumbling cascades. In the west stream valleys form wide deep valleys through the plateau as at Cot, Kenidjack and Tregaseal, whilst in the south on the shallower slopes stream valleys are markedly deeper and steeper sided especially near the coast.

In the north and west, developing scrub and woodland is establishing along open stream
courses whilst in the south there is extensive well established mixed but only partially native
broadleaved woodland in the deep shelter of valleys which is sometimes luxuriant in the lushness of its growth such as in the Lamorna Valley. The special and constantly varying qualities of light, colour and texture in the landscape have made Penwith popular with the many artists who are based here.

There is great time depth to this landscape with visible remains covering millennia of unbroken human occupation. The wealth of ancient features includes enigmatic standing stones, mysterious fougous, tombs, fortifications and ancient settlements such as the well preserved examples at Chysauster and Carn Euny. Concentrated dramatically along the west coast are the impressive and numerous surviving remains and structures of the formerly extensive mining industry including old chimneys and ruined engine houses amidst
disturbed bare ground that includes open shafts and spoil heaps. In the south and west in particular medieval wayside granite crosses are a locally distinctive feature.

Settlement pattern reflects the areas’ culture and long history being generally dispersed as is typical of the Celtic west with scattered farmstead groups related strongly to the ancient field pattern as for example at Zennor and Rosemergy. In the west however the strong influence of mining overlays this earlier settlement pattern as shown for example by the numerous terraced granite mining cottages at Pendeen and Boscaswell. St Just is the largest settlement, set around its twin squares, early square towered, granite church and the ancient Plen-an-Gwarry which is said to be the oldest continuously used theatre in the country. Journeying south, Sennen and Mousehole have developed around historic small stone built harbours and between these, smaller coastal communities centre on local fishing coves as at Lamorna, Penberth and Cape Cornwall. Apart from a few isolated prominent tourist
destinations such as at Lands End and Sennen Cove, visitor infrastructure is almost invisible in the landscape and even Lands End aerodrome with its grass runways, its grouping of a few small scale buildings and infrequent use by light aircraft scarcely intrudes on the tranquil rural character.

Upland areas are almost devoid of settlement with dwellings mostly in the relative shelter south east of the downs. Buildings and structures are almost exclusively of local granite with slate roofing which together weather to appear almost as if they are grown from the landscape in which they are set. Near Porthcurno the open air terraced seats and stage of the Minack Theatre are set into the granite cliffs host to regular plays and performances against the expansive backdrop of Mounts Bay.

Winding between fields and farmsteads are numerous small lanes edged with Cornish Hedges or cut into the ground from centuries of continuous use. Over the central hills old tracks still exist that were used historically as drove roads for transporting livestock and goods lending a timeless quality to the landscape. The B3306 follows an ancient track route around the north coast along the foot of the hills providing one of the most popular scenic routes in Cornwall.

Management

• The National Trust manages significant and extensive coastal and inland properties around
Zennor, around St Levan and St Just (including extensive coastal mining features).

• Parish Plans are in place for: St Levan; Zennor; St Buryan; Sancreed; Sennen and Madron.

• The Cornwall and West Devon Mining World Heritage Site designation includes sites such as Geevor, Botallack and Levant along the western coast.

• Active granite quarrying operations in elevated land at Castle-an-Dinas and operations at Penlee quarry (close to the AONB at Newlyn) are controlled under the terms of updated planning conditions approved under the Review of Mineral Planning Permissions. There is a proposal for a marina development at Penlee Quarry.

• The St Just Heritage Area Regeneration Project led to the successful physical regeneration of St Just town centre, stabilisation of selected prominent historic mine buildings, renovation of local fishing infrastructure at Cape Cornwall and of historic stiles.

• The Environmentally Sensitive Area (ESA) scheme whose main focus was preservation of the historic environment, halting the loss of heathland and improving ploughing practice is now closed to applications and will be gradually replaced with Entry Level and Higher Level Stewardship schemes. The end of the ESA potentially may leave important habitats and features unprotected.

• A ‘Vision for the moors and other related land in West Penwith, Cornwall’ has been prepared by Natural England as a vehicle for securing agreement between stakeholders and agencies on integrated management of habitats and historic landscapes whilst maintaining the downs as a grazed landscape.

• The ‘Wild Penwith’ initiative promoted by Cornwall Wildlife Trust (CWT) is a landscape scale initiative for management of a variety of habitats and enhancing water quality across West Penwith.

• The Cornwall Biodiversity Initiative supports the objectives of the ‘Vision for the moors and other related land in West Penwith, Cornwall’.

• A candidate Special Area of Conservation is proposed along the west Penwith coast from coast south of Lands End, extending past Cape Cornwall to just east of Gurnards Head. The designation is proposed for submerged reefs.

Condition

• Whilst much visitor infrastructure is low key that at Lands End and Sennen is visually intrusive.

• Castle-an-Dinas quarry which supplies granite for road aggregate and hedging has a harsh
appearance on the horizon and although operations are largely screened from external views, there are some unnatural landforms associated with tipping and stockpiles.

• Some historic mining structures have not been stabilised hence are at risk of deterioration for example at Rosewall and Ransom, Wheal Sisters, Ding Dong, Gurnard’s Head, Wheal Hearle, Leswidden chimney, Spearne Consols, Carnyorth, Wheal Call, Cot Valley, Portheras, Porthmeor, Bosigran, Wheal Cleveland and Rosevale.

• In the south in particular, agricultural land has seen a localised but significant change from high quality pasture to arable - potentially creating efficiency pressures to remove some historic field hedges.

• Scrub encroachment on the moors with serial succession to bracken and woody vegetation such as gorse and willow is widespread and especially evident at locations such as Rosewall Hill and Carn Galver. In places this can impede open access.

• Unmanaged regeneration of woody vegetation along stream valleys, often in the absence of locally native tree seed sources, has significant inclusion of sycamore.

• In southern parts of this section there was significant loss to disease of hedgerow elm trees
with impact on habitat connectivity and landscape character.

West Penwith - Guiding Principles

It is intended that these local guiding principles will support the actions of the AONB Partnership and other stakeholders and that their actions will be informed by them. Note: Some local issues may be addressed by strategic policies.

GP07.1	Seek reduction in landscape and visual impacts and better integration at existing holiday sites, visitor infrastructure, car parks and signage. Pay particular attention to respecting local character in external works, landscaping, coastal heathland restoration and management of well used routes for example at Lands End and Sennen.
GP07.2	Support local employment and affordable housing development in settlements with access to employment and local services provided that by location and design this fully respects historic settlement pattern and local vernacular including characteristic use of local materials in buildings and external works - for example at St Just and Pendeen. Where relevant, settlement edge enhancement should be achieved.
GP07.3	Require an assessment of landscape, visual and cumulative impact of future proposals for tall structures such as farm scale, community and larger wind turbines, masts and utilities infrastructure and require this to be assessed within the context of the evidence base including the emerging Renewable and Low Carbon Energy Supplementary Planning Document. Those proposals which have an adverse impact on natural beauty should not be supported.
GP07.4	Encourage the sympathetic operation and progressive restoration of Castle-an-Dinas quarry in a manner that respects local landscape character, includes appropriate vegetation, appropriate final landform and permanent restoration of completed areas at the earliest possible stages. Support further measures to protect and enhance environmental quality when existing quarrying permissions are reviewed
GP07.5	Encourage the sympathetic management of Lands End Aerodrome and ensure that new development has appropriate regard to the rural character of the area.
GP07.6	Seek conservation and enhancement of the existing rural character of the B3306 and other roads in this area through sensitive design and minimal use of highway infrastructure. Discourage widening, straightening, re-routing, kerbing and enclosure of currently unenclosed sections.
GP07.7	Seek traffic reduction and management measures on the coast road between St Just and St Ives (B3306) for cars and in particular tourist coaches.
GP07.8	Support an integrated approach to proactive management of access on open access land, with the full involvement of landowners, stakeholders including the local community, users, Cornwall Council and other relevant public bodies to ensure a long term strategy for access management, built upon consensus.
GP07.9	Support consideration of access improvement along old drove routes and tracks across the Penwith Downs, for example consideration of the re-establishment of the Tinners Way, in a manner that respects these route’s historic origins and local landscape character based on stakeholder and community support
GP07.10	Support the continuation of small scale sustainable fisheries in order to conserve community vibrancy and the character of local coves such as at Porthgwarra, Lamorna, Penberth and Cape Cornwall.
GP07.11	Seek the strongest possible recognition and protection of the ancient prehistoric field systems bound by granite Cornish hedges as valuable historic landscape features and support their ongoing conservation and management. This can be for example within the Entry and Higher Level Environmental Stewardship schemes through full take up by farmers coming out of the Environmentally Sensitive Areas Scheme.
GP07.12	Support integrated projects that include aims to stabilise engine houses and other mining structures that are significant in the landscape such as at Rosewall and Ransom, Wheal Sisters, Ding Dong, Gurnard’s Head, Wheal Hearle, Leswidden chimney, Spearne Consols, Carnyorth, Wheal Call, Cot Valley, Portheras, Porthmeor, Bosigran, Wheal Cleveland and Rosevale.
GP07.13	Support integrated management of the biodiversity and the historic landscapes of the Penwith Downs (also known as Penwith Moors) based on stakeholder and community support, through appropriate measures building on existing National Trust and World Heritage Site management plans and Cornwall Biodiversity Initiative priorities.
GP07.14	Encourage the productive management of woodlands for example at Lamorna, St Loy and Penberth valleys in a manner that is consistent with conserving and enhancing local landscape character and biodiversity.
GP07.15	Support the establishment, and extension of existing and developing inland and coastal valley woodlands and favour establishment of locally native tree species such as Sessile Oak, Hazel and Alder for example within valleys in the south, north and in the west such as the Cot and Kenidjack valleys. Consider localised planting of local provenance native tree species to act as a future seed source for native woodland establishment where this is currently absent or sparse to assist subsequent natural regeneration.
GP07.16	Encourage in the southern part of West Penwith the management of hedges to allow elm and other hedge tree regeneration or, where appropriate, planting of native or locally naturalised tree species on hedges in order to restore landscape character following the impacts of elm disease including raising awareness that such local hedges were previously considerably more treed.